CINNAMON PHOTOGRAPHS AND WRITINGS BY EMMET KOWLER
In keeping with the season, Heavy Table is proud to present a husband-to-wife conservation battle between two of the best fall spices: Emmet Kowler portraying the team’s cinnamon with five hand-picked culinary treats, with Cecilia Johnson battling it out. for the team cardamom with a similarly sized team. Let the spice war begin!
HOT FIVE: CINNAMON EDITION
Cinnamon has its place in buns, cookies, breads, pancakes and, my favorite, French toast (I love carbs). I believe in the excellence of this classic, compatible and flexible spice. Here are five things I plan to indulge in again before the end of the season. – Emmet Kowler
# 5 Cinnamon Roll at Hot Hands Pie & Biscuit | St. Paul
It almost made me want to go back to college, just so I could grab such a healthy, gooey treat when I’m late for Economics of Something 1201 in Macalester. It really is a treat. These buns ($ 4) meet all the expectations you could have of the classic sugar bomb for breakfast. Lots of butter, not too sweet, and best of all: you can spread the frosting yourself!
# 4 Hot tea with cinnamon and spices at Caribou | Any of them
Ted Lasso and his “warm brown water” can do like a tree. The rules of tea, especially this one: an excellent autumn companion with surprising depth. The front of each sip is ripe with orange and cloves, with all three different cinnamons coming in to warm your palate long after you’ve swallowed. A great, seasonal, non-spiced pumpkin hot drink isn’t much more accessible than this ($ 2.50).
# 3 Goat Dum Biryani at Hyderabad Indian Grill | Fridley
On a list that started out as an excuse to try cinnamon buns and donuts (winner to follow), I’m happy to present a savory option. The Indian subcontinent and neighboring regions produce foods with incredible spice blends, many of which contain both cinnamon and cardamom. Popular throughout the Indian diaspora, biryani combines cooked meat with spicy rice, baked in the oven and served as a main course. Somehow, without the help of the sauce, Hyderabad’s South Indian approach makes their biryani ($ 19 for a popping-filled container) as satisfying as anything on a table. of Thanksgiving.
# 2 The Beekeeper at Young Joni’s Back Bar | Minneapolis
“I like to play the balancing act,” said the bartender as he finished preparing my cocktail. He places a slice of dehydrated pineapple, topped with a teaspoon of real pollen, delicately on the edge of the cut glass. The fruit rivals glass in diameter. The Beekeeper ($ 11) is forward-thinking but still plant-based, with enough cinnamon and rum to give you a good bite to eat – at the height of the course in the innovative cocktail and pizza auxiliary room of the now codified staple food of the Northeast.
# 1 downtown at Sun Street Breads | Minneapolis
Now that the 35W is completely reopened, go down to the southern part of avenue Nicollet. Here you’ll find one of the best pastry crates in town. And inside that case you’ll find the Downtowners ($ 4), adorably stacked on top of each other. Their name comes from the inspiration of the pastry shop: the historic Downtown Creamery in Healdsburg, California, not far from the former Bay Area playground of co-owner Martin Ouimet. The dessert, itself the creation of co-owner and head baker Solveig Tofte, will be familiar to you if you’ve ever had a cinnamon bun or a croissant, because it’s both. And inside the perfectly detachable sugar-coated swirl are the good things: cinnamon, cardamom, and cloves. Oh, and they’ll put the spices in a latte for you too.
HOT FIVE: CARDAMOM EDITION
I love cardamom for its scent. The pre-crushed dust in the spice aisle is one thing, but if you buy whole pods and blitz the seeds at home, you’ll feel a bloom of invigorating, almost pine aroma. If you’re looking for green cardamom pods, go to Seward Coop. But if you’d rather have someone else cook your meal, try these: my favorite cardamom foods in town. (Honorable mention: Somali tea at Hufan’s on Lake Street!) – Cecilia Johnson
# 5 Gazoz with Cardamom | Minneapolis
The new Walker Art Center restaurant is called Cardamom, so we had to give it a go. It lives up to its brand image; not only do many of Shawn McKenzie’s pastries contain cardamom, but the refreshing gazoz ($ 7 plus a 5% health and wellness supplement). It’s an Israeli-style soda loaded with berries and mint, and while the typical gazoz is alcohol-free, you can add a glass of alcohol to Cardamom for a few dollars. Is this drink the most amazing value proposition in the world? No, it’s a graded Italian soda. Is this the most amazing Italian soda ranked? I vote “yes”.
# 4 Deep Dish Lamb at Namaste Cafe | Minneapolis
When I worked at Namaste, I ate a lot of simple food: chole, fried dal, garlic paratha. Now that I visit less often, I can’t pass up the branded items: Tangy Mango Curry, Chili Namaste, and Deep Dish Lamb ($ 19.50 for a large serving), which includes cinnamon and cardamom. Namaste is a Nepalese place in an old Victorian house on Hennepin, and between the restaurant’s long duration and reputation for slow service, it can escape the radar. But where else can you get free Wi-Fi, free street parking in Uptown (across the alley!), Succulent lamb curry, and cardamom and ginger chai?
# 3 Strawberry cardamom jam Riffraff Jams & Jellies | Minneapolis
I can’t say cardamom jam was on my shopping list when I visited Midtown Farmers Market a few weeks ago, but you know how one thing leads to another. I stopped by the Riffraff table to discuss jam, then decided to buy an eight-ounce jar of raspberries, and why not throw in half a jar of the seller’s seasonal recommendation? Weeks later, I’m rationing this jam, fearing that I would have to try and make it myself once I run out of it. The juiciness of the strawberries goes well with the herb cardamom. The fruit pieces are super small and the consistency is not wobbly or soupy.
# 2 Firni at Khyber Pass | St. Paul
If you’re used to nurse bananas or croquembouche, firni ($ 5) may not look like much. But this cardamom and rosewater cream, garnished with crushed pistachios, is a sweet, creamy and quite interesting dessert after the lamb kebab or Daal Korma. Khyber Pass is only open to take out right now, and this custard melts easily, but fear not. The Afghan restaurant’s rosewater cardamom rice pudding (daygcha, $ 6) serves the same purpose as well.
# 1 Cardamom Spinners at Brake Bread | St. Paul
Meet the number one seller at Brake Bread on West 7th: the fragrant, cardamom spinner worthy to drive through town (a $ 3 bargain). This Swedish kardemummabulle “tour” begins with a sweet dough, enhanced with wheat flour, whole wheat flour and milk. Then the bakers add a light layer of the cardamom filling. The buns are baked until slightly crisp, somehow retaining their soft interior, then sprinkled with cardamom sugar.